[jm1234]

I have a couple questions about these topics for anyone interested in helping.

If your brakes vibrate after using stock pads at the track then from what I understand it could be brake pad buildup on the rotor and warped rotors are rare. Can you see this brake pad buildup as I can't visually see anything on my rotors. Some have stated that you can continue to drive the car and the vibration (and presumably the buildup) will go away. Is there someway to clean the rotors as driving with vibrating brakes doesn't seem very safe and those vibrations can't be very good for the car integrity as a whole (squeaks and rattles and all)? I've called in the past about turning slotted or drilled rotors and the 3-4 shops I talked to all stated it would ruin their machine (which seems sensible) so that doesn't seem like an option I can follow up on here. Is there a method other than turning the rotors or driving to remove this brake pad buildup?

I've just a couple track events (five days total, four in this car, B group in BMW CCA), so I'm wondering if I want to go the route of getting Pagid or Hawk pads or is that overkill (or likely to get me killed, I don't want to touch the brakes and have the ABS engage every time). I want to do what is right for the car but I don't want to put modifications on the car that change the performance. I like the car as it is out of the box and I specifically bought it so I could have a daily driver that was built for aggressive driving. Is there a pad that will hold up under aggressive driving but that keeps the same driving characteristics as stock? How long does it take pads to cool down before you can change them back? Is it OK to drive a calm/legal hour home on them or do you have to wait for the pads to cool and then change them before setting out less aggressively? (or do you just drive home like you stole it?)

Does anyone know the torque values for whatever screws nuts and bolts you need to undue in order to swap front pads?

Finally, thanks for any help with this topic.