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I was there 10 years ago, so this is maybe a little dated...
As mentioned above, if you haven't booked a room nearish to the track, it ain't happening now. We were eight months out and still had to stay in Brussels and drive in each day. (This wa sback when it was a three day affair.) We had parking with out ticket, but got mixed up and ended up on the wrong road every day; we'd come to a barricade manned by two guys speaking, I guess, Flemish, and they'd say something to us, we'd reply "English?", and they'd shrug and move the barricade. Reat about three more times and we parked right at the trackside fence every day! Traffic wasn't horrible until leaving the track after the race--arrival times are spread out, whereas everyone leaves at the same time. My wife almost got me arrested for going around a barricade blocking a rest stop entrance so she could pee, after sitting in traffic for an hour and going nowhere following the race.
The area is gorgeous--think mountains and Dr. Seuss trees-- and has lots of WWII history... Battle of the Bulge was here, there are a number of museums and such.
We had seats at Malmedy, but I enjoyed walking around; if I went again, I'd get a GA ticket. The hill overlooking the braking zone at the end of Kemmel is seriously cool--top speed, massive, incomprehensible braking. Rivage and the downhill to Pouhon are neat. TV doesn't do Eau Rouge justice--it's STRAIGHT FREAKING UP!--but it's crowded around there and seats are very expensive. Gettinhg through the pedestrian tunnel to the paddock arae is a full contact sport, so prepare you wife for that.
No matter what, GO! This and Monza are the last of the legendary circuits.
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