You can ask for details here :
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?act=idx
Here's my personal critique
For fun :
- Shed 500+ lbs (not flighty enough)
- Manual (DCT is a bore)
For daily :
- Less road noise (this is the only thing that makes this car less than perfectly comfortable)
- Auto mode shift to 1st before a complete stop (stays in 2nd till the bitter end. Makes quick stop&go's at a stop sign in Auto mode a pain, as it will roll out in 2nd)
Insurance is about $1400 / year (IIRC. I'd have to check my bill)
Tax is around $2k / year
Tyres will run about $500 each
(but I will probably go to 18's anyways and run r comps or semi r comps)
Rotors / pads are wear and tear items, and are not replaced under warranty when they wear out.
Aftermarket options :
Regular DD pads (par or slightly nicer than OEM) :
$310 for the entire car
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...SAN&model=GT-R
$490 front and $340 rear, upgraded pads.
http://www.gt-rr.com/product.html?m=...ompound&id=143
http://www.gt-rr.com/product.html?m=...ompound&id=142
(Throw in another $20 bucks for the "Race" versions, but they need to reach 'operating temperature'... less street friendly.)
Upgraded rotors.
$585 per corner.
http://www.gt-rr.com/product.html?m=...c_price&id=529
Mod wise, like with anything, YMMV depending on what dealers you go to.
Some have people rolling in with 900 whp and honor their coverage for whatever reasonable item comes up.
Others will threaten your warranty because they say your tyre tread is too low and you MUST buy tyres from them (personal experience).
In terms of cheap mods, a mid pipe + cobb ap can get your 0-60 under 3.
Expensive wise, you can get 1000hp cots. 1200 and 1500 are in the works. But you're looking at big money.
-scheherazade