Quote:
Originally Posted by jphughan
^ Thanks!!
I'm surprised that the most negative camber you can get on a bone stock setup is -1.3 and even that requires pulling pins -- so much for getting -2 as a baseline! But (and I now realize I didn't word this well in my original question) what I meant to ask was what's the maximum negative camber I could expect with my 220M wheels, EDC, these plates on their maximum setting, and no other changes to the suspension, not even pulling pins if I can avoid it? My last alignment sheet shows me at -1, and from what I'm reading it doesn't look like you can get much more than that completely stock, but if just adding these camber plates can get me to -2.5 for the track, I think I'd be happy with that.
Sorry if these questions are rudimentary, but this would be my first foray into suspension mods and while I'm familiar with some of the concepts and purposes, I'm less informed as to what particular details about the rest of the car's setup affect possible outcomes/potential.
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The pins (1 each side) are located on the stock spring perches. So when you swap them for camber plate, you will no longer have pins. An additional +-0.5 deg of camber adjustment is possible with camber plates by also adjusting the strut tower brace. You will want to use this adjustment to match left/right camber and set starting camber (street camber) prior to checking your full track camber. Also set the toe slightly toe-in to minimize excessive toe-out in track setting.
A good starting camber with the Vorshlag plate is -1.0 deg which gives you -2.5 deg track camber. If going for a static setup, -2.0 to -2.2 deg might be a good compromise. You will also need to max the rear camber to limit the oversteer tendency of having more front grip.