If you stay in the car for awhile (3-5 minutes) with the doors closed and the car off, then the relay must click if it is wired/working correctly once you open a door, turn the car on or the iDrive on (press volume button with car off). The relay provides the 12V to the camera itself.
So if you hear the click then the relay is wired correctly and working. That's takes care of the relay test.
To determine if the camera is actually receiving 12V then you must test the camera power jack (at its cable) itself or the relay terminal 87 for 12V.
The OEM cam emulator is wired/working properly because you do see the the OEM rear camera screen but no video. So your problem is the power to the camera.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hpc3
you can easily access it? I installed/coded mine Friday and I don't think I'm getting power to the camera. I'm working with Patryk on this but know its likely going to be a challenge to diagnose between continents... I'm curious what you get with the camera unplugged, understand if its buried and you can't get to it easily.
I have everything coded, CIC looks like yours however there is no picture. I can adjust the contrast and brightness in the display so this has me a little baffled. I would assume the picture would remain black with no video signal... maybe thats a CIC display function though. I plan on hitting RadioShack to make a jumper to test for power back at the camera plug. I'm betting its up in the harness somewhere though.
Any thoughts/help appreciated. |