Quote:
Originally Posted by Adobong_M
Thanks man! Having issue on pulling the bridge out. And the recommended torque on the bridge screws.
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Yeah the bridges are a pain. Easiest way is to get a flathead and stick it between the outer shell of the caliper and the pad-facing side of the caliper bridge and pry; wrap it in something soft to avoid marring the caliper paint. Then to get the bridge back into place, you'll probably want a rubber mallet. Torque spec on the bridge bolts per the installation manual is 9 lb-ft (or 108 lb-inch), but they say you don't really need a torque wrench for that as long as you make sure not to OVERtighten them. Just remember how much effort it took to get them loose and replicate that. Just a) make sure not to lose the washers in there, b) start all bolts before tightening any of them, and c) tighten them according to StopTech's sequence, which counting from the top is 3, 2, 4, 1.
Torque spec on the jet nuts that attach the caliper to the bracket, on the other hand, DOES matter, though you'd only need to do that to replace the rotors or if you run into issues getting pads in or out. That spec is 40 lb-ft (480 lb-inch). Same warning about not losing the washers under the jet nuts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD
okay let us know what you find out. on my install i just used thread lube and hand tightened with t-handle. cant really get accurate torque readings when using a lubricant on the threads.
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You sure using thread lube is ok on those bolts? The manual doesn't mention anything about it.