Quote:
Originally Posted by Elldon
Thanks for the info and confirmation/explanation. OP did not specify which part of heel&toe exactly is problematic for him, since you already explained the foot work, I just wanted to shed some light on the whole process. Because if he is just learning, he better learns it properly since changing your habits later is much more difficult.
Also, why would heel-toe be usually used with method #2? I toe-toe with method #1 and it works perfectly (in theory, still need to practice a lot :-) ). When using heel&toe/toe&toe, I believe one should always use method #1.
|
Heel-toe (or toe-toe) doesn't have any influence by itself on whether you'd use Method #1 or #2 since whether or not you double-clutch doesn't have anything to do with whether or not you're braking while trying to execute a downshift. The reasons I said that most people who heel-toe DON'T double-clutch are:
- Heel-toe is executed more frequently on the track where you want things to happen more quickly, so spending extra time on a shift just to avoid a little wear and tear on synchros isn't worth it in that setting, especially since on a track you wouldn't be skipping gears, which means you're already keeping wear and tear on synchros pretty low.
- Most people don't double-clutch at all, whether or not they're on the track or heel-toeing at the same time. I personally only do it when skipping more than one gear, e.g. 6>3, because otherwise it can be tough to impossible to get the shifter through the gate. The ONLY other time I skip gears is occasionally going from 4>6, and I've never felt the need to double-clutch there since the synchros always seem perfectly up to the task. Every other shift I do is between adjacent gears where it's just never seemed worth it to double-clutch. Maybe I would on a gearbox with ratios farther apart, but not on my car.