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Originally Posted by silvergray545
Thanks! And yeah, I didn't think everyone wanted to go through all those pics lol.
Thanks for telling me what exactly needs to be edited too. I have Aperture 3 on my MBP, so I'll play with the RGB and contrast tonight hopefully.
I was shooting on automatic mode. I need to figure out how to change the shutter speed. I read on here that you should shoot in TV mode with a set shutter speed. I need to learn my camera a little more.
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You MUST be aware of shutter speed and aperture and you can do that by shooting either Tv or Av modes, or, of course, shooting manual. I shoot Av, but always look at the SS in the viewfinder. If it's not where I want it, I raise or lower ISO or change f-stop. I like Av because I control DOF by managing the aperture.
When you go to RAW you'll gain a stop or two of dynamic range if you "expose right" (to the right of the historgram). If you expose as far to the right as possible without blowing out highlights, then you'll maximize the dynamic range and detail of your image, preserving as much shadow detail as possible. There are highlight warning lights that should be turned on because they'll blink in the preview LCD if you've blown out a highlight. When shooting Tv or Av or Automatic, you expose right, generally, by setting the EV at +. Generally +1/3 to +1EV is enough, but I use as much as +2EV in certain circumstances. If your blinkie warning lights go off, the lower EV and even go to -EV if there are whites in sunlight, etc.
"Expose Right" is a RAW technique. Your in-camera jpegs will look washed out, but when you do RAW conversion you'll pull your brightness levels down.
I've never used Aperture, but lots of pros use it, so I think it's good and will do all the things we're talking about here. I use DxO Optics Pro because it's optimized for each of my lens/body combinations and corrects for the errors in my lenses, particularly zooms at wide angles. LightRoom does some of that, but not at every aperture and every focal-length like DxO.
Dave