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      04-05-2011, 01:39 AM   #11
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mastek's Avatar

Drives: slow
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA

iTrader: (15)

Originally Posted by jml View Post
Mastek, one thing to consider if you are paranoid. A lower impedance load will typically be harder for the amplifier to control (damping). You will get a little bit tighter bass at low frequencies (theoretically) with a higher impedance load - so I'd choose the 8ohm units. You may need a larger amp to get the power levels you want.

Also, I would stay away from a class AB amp if you are in a hot climate. 1) You do not want to add any heat to the trunk and kill the OEM amp, which has already shown its colors w/r to heat. and 2) Class D amps are smaller, more efficient, and can themselves run in harsher conditions (because they don't add much heat to their environment).

I can't tell a difference between mono/stereo in my car. The sws subs need to be crossed over at around 100-120Hz, which in a car environment will have little effect on channel separation with the subs 3 feet apart. The OEM units were working in the 200-250Hz mid-bass range, which is a different story.
Wait - what 8ohm units? The SWS-8s come in 2 or 4 ohm
I def want to get a D-Class Amp ...i just dont know which one will give me the best result.
1- SWS-8 (4ohm) in Stereo with an Alpine D-Class 2x150w
2- SWS-8 (2ohm) in Parralel with an Alpine D-Class 1x300
Or what else...?

Wow ... i didnt know the OE underseat subs were set between 200-250hz ...that explains alot. How would I change the crossover output from the OE Amp with just an additional Amp and a LOC from Technic?