Originally Posted by mastek
That just adds more questions for me...
My concern is with 'sound' i want the best bang for the buck.
- are the oe underseat subs wired direct or parralel?
- what wiring setup will yield the punchiest, deeper bass -- parralel or 2-ch direct?
- is there a class AB amp that compares to the d-class amps' physical lightness, compact structure for my 'underseat sub replacement only' setup?
- would i hear or feel an audible difference if i upgraded the underseat subs between a d-class 4ohm and an AB class amp?
Thanks ahead for your time.
Mastek, one thing to consider if you are paranoid. A lower impedance load will typically be harder for the amplifier to control (damping). You will get a little bit tighter bass at low frequencies (theoretically) with a higher impedance load - so I'd choose the 8ohm units. You may need a larger amp to get the power levels you want.
Also, I would stay away from a class AB amp if you are in a hot climate. 1) You do not want to add any heat to the trunk and kill the OEM amp, which has already shown its colors w/r to heat. and 2) Class D amps are smaller, more efficient, and can themselves run in harsher conditions (because they don't add much heat to their environment).
I can't tell a difference between mono/stereo in my car. The sws subs need to be crossed over at around 100-120Hz, which in a car environment will have little effect on channel separation with the subs 3 feet apart. The OEM units were working in the 200-250Hz mid-bass range, which is a different story.