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      04-02-2011, 08:48 AM   #8
jml
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mastek View Post
That just adds more questions for me...
My concern is with 'sound' i want the best bang for the buck.

- are the oe underseat subs wired direct or parralel?

- what wiring setup will yield the punchiest, deeper bass -- parralel or 2-ch direct?

- is there a class AB amp that compares to the d-class amps' physical lightness, compact structure for my 'underseat sub replacement only' setup?

- would i hear or feel an audible difference if i upgraded the underseat subs between a d-class 4ohm and an AB class amp?

Thanks ahead for your time.
Mastek, one thing to consider if you are paranoid. A lower impedance load will typically be harder for the amplifier to control (damping). You will get a little bit tighter bass at low frequencies (theoretically) with a higher impedance load - so I'd choose the 8ohm units. You may need a larger amp to get the power levels you want.

Also, I would stay away from a class AB amp if you are in a hot climate. 1) You do not want to add any heat to the trunk and kill the OEM amp, which has already shown its colors w/r to heat. and 2) Class D amps are smaller, more efficient, and can themselves run in harsher conditions (because they don't add much heat to their environment).

I can't tell a difference between mono/stereo in my car. The sws subs need to be crossed over at around 100-120Hz, which in a car environment will have little effect on channel separation with the subs 3 feet apart. The OEM units were working in the 200-250Hz mid-bass range, which is a different story.
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