View Single Post
      05-16-2009, 03:49 PM   #60
Cleveland
Banned
0

 
Drives: M3 coupe
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Louisiana


Posts: 50
iTrader: (0)

This brings back some bad memories...

Quote:
Originally Posted by swamp2 View Post
Agreeing with lucid here. You (HP) are not only providing incorrect information but you are throwing around a bunch of totally unverified numbers.

An alternator in any car absolutely charges the battery and it does so fairly quickly. Ever have a completely dead battery, get a jump, drive around for 30 minutes and have a totally fine battery? I have. No not in my current car but I'd be floored if it wouldn't work in it.

I also fail to believe that will all power consumers on that the battery will not charge. What kind of nonsensical design would that be? Give the huge teams of BMW electrical engineers some credit. Also, how much variation is there in consumption? The only variables are stereo (and stereo volume - that would be a big one) and interior lights. Everything else will be running normally and running always. Of course some consumers will consume in an rpm dependent fashion.

Our points stand: If the OEM battery can support CA for weeks, then the Braille, operating as per specs can certainly handle a CA for for days. There is plenty of empirical evidence just among the few of us posting here that Braille DOES have one or more problems.

I'm not sure how many times I have to repeat it: The reduced Ah specs for a battery such as the Braille should only really be a factor in cold weather or for long periods of using lights or stereo with the engine not running. Or of course the combination of these.
You and Lucid are now experiencing the same problems I did on previous M3's. (E36 & E46)

I was determined to fit a small lightweight racing battery into these cars in order to shed some weight. I tried and failed many times to buy 'the right' lightweight racing battery (thinking that actually mattered )

I realize NOW how foolish that was...

When I attempted to swap my heavy OEM battery, with a smaller D50 battery from Optima, it lasted all of three months before the trouble began. It took several trips to the dealer to find out that I simply couldn't use that battery in that car. The electronic circuits that monitored and controlled the factory alarm system was draining that battery too much. (not kidding) I thought the tech at the dealership was kidding...but apparently he wasn't. After charging it all the way back to 100%, just one week without driving the car, and it was dead as a doornail. (again!)



It didn't have the reserve capacity or cranking amps, and it was charging too slow in between trips to make up the difference. I suspect that is what you are experiencing now.

I ended up killing 2 alternators (actually just the VOLTAGE REGULATOR) because of the overload induced by simultaneously trying to charge the battery up and operate every other electrical device while the car was moving. At first, I thought it was just my E36 M3, but I got similar lackluster results on my E46M3 as well. It wasn't the cars, it was my insistence on shoving a square peg into a round hole...

The battery is simply too small man. (regardless of what the specs may lead you to believe)

I have done exhaustive research, and I can share some details that you may not be aware of in regards to these small racing application batteries. There are quite a few differences between the battery you have now, and the OEM battery. The typical automotive battery that you normally buy at the Auto parts store is a different animal. Trust me when I tell you this...

These problems will definitely persist going forward. There is no "solution" that will magically appear on the horizon. You and Lucid will continue to fight an uphill battle on this until you finally give up. (that's a promise)

By that time, you will have invested a great deal of time, money, and effort for a mod that has no chance of long-term success.

I HATE TO SEE PEOPLE STRUGGLE WITH SOMETHING, WHEN I KNOW IT WON'T WORK.

Sorry for shouting, but this kind thing bugs me. (a lot)

This battery is all wrong for your application, and it should not be marketed as a legitimate option for this car. It may work well for a smaller import (compact or sub-compact) but that's about it.

And so you don't get the wrong idea here, I really like Braille batteries, and consider their products one of the best out there FOR RACING APPLICATIONS. (not necessarily street cars)

It's not just Braille. I tried Oddyssey, Buddy Club (out of japan), Optima, Exide, and even a Heavy-Duty Motorcycle battery with custom terminals.

None of it worked for more than a year...

When I think of all the time and money I wasted, trying to 'beat the system' (more or less) by screwing around with something that was never going to fly...

I was trying to "out engineer" the BMW electrical enginnering group in Germany...and it didn't turn out well. That's a daunting task...even if you aren't trying to reinvent the wheel.

I did eventually find a more practical solution that worked out extremely well.

If you have any questions, let me know...