Originally Posted by Gary_C
Thanks for the response.
While it may have sounded like I was disputing that there was an issue, we do appreciate constructive feed back and definitely take it into consideration with future products. It may also have been that I am biased with significant practice since the majority of our top level race calipers are a similar design, and I have a lot of experience with our new Gran Turismo monobloc design.
As for tips on changing the pads (since the video is not yet on our website) here's a couple things I make sure I have/do every time:
1) A good pair of mechanics gloves are a must have.
After approximately 15-20 minutes of cooling, you should be able to handle the caliper with no issues at all. This could be the time period while you get your car up in the air and the wheels off, plus a brief period checking the time sheets from the last session, or grabbing and chugging a cool drink.
2) Have the appropriate tools ready at hand.
- Medium length ratchet already loaded with the appropriate allen tool.
- Small center punch for tapping out the pins.
- Small (6") ball-peen hammer for tapping the center punch.
- Good quality torque wrench for properly torquing the caliper bolts.
3) Remove the pins and spring plate first, before removing the caliper
For comparisons sake:
- Removing the pins from either style caliper takes the same amount of time and effort.
- Loosening the bolts the caliper take the same amount of time as removing the bolts that attach the bolt in bridge
- I believe spreading the pistons on the monobloc caliper is quicker since you can "twist" the caliper as you lift it off of the disc to spread them to full open position.
The stud kit we developed simply allows you to slide the caliper into the correct position and torque it down with (2) jet nuts on top. This is a change from having to hold the caliper in place while you try to line up the (2) bolts. The difference is that it is very difficult to accidentally strip the bracket as we have had people do when they are in a hurry and impatient. It only cuts about 2 or 3 minutes from the complete job, but when you are rushing to get ready for your next session, every little bit helps.
Thanks for this. I follow the exact procedure you have listed above.
The bit I have found the most fiddly though is re-inserting the pads, pins and spring plate. COuld you tell me how you do this?
i.e. do you try to reassemble all of the above while the caliper is off the rotor, or just loose fit the pads, try to re-position the calliper on the rotor, and only then insert the spring plate and pins? I have found the pressure of the spring plate makes the forward most pin kinda hard to locate while the caliper is off the rotor, and while its on I can't seem to get the pad holes to line up right.
I am sure this will be answered in the video though