Originally Posted by Gary_C
Just for the record my name is Gary Cogis and I work for Race Technologies, the High Performance representative for Brembo, and distributor of the aftermarket BBK's for North America.
The performance and function of this caliper grossly outweighs the perceived difficulty to remove the caliper for pad changes. I will agree that it is not as quick and easy as an open top caliper, but it is also much simpler and quicker than an OEM sliding caliper and also on par with calipers that require removal of a bolt in bridge. Again, this was a conscious engineering decision based on providing optimum performance. If ease of pad changes is a strong requirement we do offer a stainless steed stud kit to replace the bracket bolts for those of you who track your car regularly. This does help to simplify the process a bit more by having studs to line up the caliper and also makes it more difficult to accidentally cross thread or strip a bracket when changing pads. I have personally changed pads on nearly ever caliper design in use today, and the time it takes for removal of 2 additional bolts is less than the time it typically takes to spread the pistons to the full open position. You can do this task as you lift the caliper off of the disc.
(we will have an instructional video on changing pads in a monobloc caliper very soon)
As the OP of this thread can I just thank you for taking the time out to respond to this post.
I appreciate that the monobloc caliper & pad design may have many performance advantages and do not dispute anything you say. I just want to take issue with the piece above.
Firstly I agree with the fact that pad changes with this caliper are simpler and quicker than OEM. However, I disagree that it is on a par with calipers with a bolt on bridge.
Stoptech calipers for example require the removal of two bolts, remove bridge, remove pads, spread pistons, insert new pads, replace bolt, tighten two bridge bolts. Done.
The monoblocs required removal of the caliper mounting bolts, lifting the caliper from the assembly, removal of the pad retaining pins and the spring etc.
How can this be on a par with the stoptechs, especially when you are at a track event and the whole brake assembly is running at several hundred degrees of temperature.
My biggest issue with this is that it forces you to start a track event knowing with certainty that you have sufficient pad material left to last the entire day. This has led to me having to replace part worn pads where I am not sure of this point, thus costing me more overall than a caliper with a bolt on bridge.
I must caveat this with saying that I look forward to your instructional video, and perhaps there are shortcuts of which I am not aware which might change my opinion.
Once again, can I thank you for your response and say that I am thrilled with the performance of the brakes. Its just that I feel this pad change issue prevents them from being the ultimate track set up for the enthusiast.
I would also be very interested to have more information about the stud kit you refer to, as I do track the car regularly (having done 6 events since July....and this is not the busy part of the year over here)