|
To think about how deep that etching goes through the clearcoat try and visualize looking at it from a cutaway perspective. If the trough of those etchings goes RIGHT to the top of the basecoat the only way you'll be able to get it removed completely is to remove nearly all of the clear around it. You dont want to do that. Some scratches and etchings are permanent tattoos your car will wear for life. Once you spread a few layers of ceramic on top only you will know they still exist on the car, but go too deep with the correcting pad and burn the paint and now everyone will know the person who detailed the car done screwed up (you). Case in point, I have removed every single swirl and light cc scratch on my melbourne red e92 and what remains is probably less than 10 little cc nicks/scratches and 2 bird poop ethcings that wouldn't come out with what I consider a very thorough and slow correction process. These are only visible with your eyes 12" from the paint and letting a light roll over the surface. If I told any of you to find all of them without getting on your knees in the direct sun, you couldn't. Although I hate the phrase "good enough" the next stop is "sh*t I went too far".
I also don't think you have to do a 3 step polishing process. In a process that's already going to take a ton of time, using something like a Sonax Perfect Finish will combine at least the last two steps into one. Don't get brand loyal in this hobby. When I got started I was all in on brand x, but I've learned that every manufacturer has their strengths and so now my detailing cabinet is what I consider an all star roster, the best at each position.
|