Originally Posted by aussiem3
I am not privy to what's happened with these engines. May be at some point in time, it might have encountered "cold" abuse. Some of the claims have been dismissed based on what was discovered through the ECU. They have seen some rev limiters raised, but I don't know whether these car had suffered bearing wear.
So please don't assume it is all down to bearing design. If there were no other contributing factors, BMW may honour and replace bearings under warranty or goodwill. Even if they get a slight sniff of skulduggery, then brace yourself for a hefty bill.
I am just letting you know what has been told to me. Yes, I have BPM stage I tune and looking forward to TMS Test pipes and BPM Stage II in the near future. But top speed and rpm will all remain stock, and I religiously warm up my car, even to the extent, I wait for the instrument cluster to show the oil level before increasing the rpm over 4k.
Just because it's a motorsport car and every component is made stronger than a series car doesn't mean it should be abused from the time you turn the key. There is a reason why the warm up sequence is built into instrument cluster. You can't plead ignorance.
So for us outside NA, it is 10w-60, and no hiding behind bearing issues. I am sorry and that the fact of life.
This is nothing against people like Kawasaki, regular guy (PG) and others who have gone to extreme lengths to point out the obvious issue - bearing and clear issues. Yes we do agree, but the point is, when BMW through it's official channel states there is nothing wrong, there is nothing one can do. This is the case at least outside NA.
I agree. Hopefully, this helps some of you on the fence about using unrecommended thinner oil. If you are under warranty especially, stick with 10W-60. You will probably go through hell if the official story from BMW is to use 10w-60 and you run into any bearing issues. I know its not scientific but using some of my old mans wits about proper engine break-in and warming up is key. I dont mean sitting the car warming up, but driving her to warm it up. You should not rev the car while its cold (even if OEM stops you at 6K, its probably best to not pass 4K) and when it reaches operating temps, gradually
building RPMs to smooth it out would be the way to go. After that you can drive it hard. Dont drive like grandmama, i am firm believer this is detrimental to any engine, especially with such a thick oil. Dont abuse it but let the RPMs rise as it was designed, but only at operating temps!
I used to drive mine slow and i stopped doing that. Its not scientific stuff but the car is noticably running more even and smooth at mid RPM range since I adopted this style of warming her up. Something is working...