Changed my plugs last week. Many thanks to TxStig for his coil puller. Took about 1.5 hours (without beer breaks). My car had 40k when I bought it two years ago, and has 61k now. I don't remember if the dealer said the plugs had been changed when I was in for the 50k service, so I'll have to follow up on that.
Per comments elsewhere, the car was very "happy" to have new plugs. :-)
There was some variation in plug deterioration, the rearmost pair looking pretty bagged. My suspicion is that those two, at least, were original.
Here is a photo of the passenger-side, rear: