I would say you don't need to realign. Put it on the rack and set your daily driving camber to a reasonable amount, say -1.5 degrees. Set the toe to the midpoint of the factory range. Make marks on the camber plates for the -1.5 setting so that you can come back to it easily when changing camber.
Now move the camber to your track setting, max'd out perhaps. Maybe you get -3.0, so now look at where the toe-in went to. It will toe out with increasing camber, so you just might have the perfect toe setting for the track (near zero). If the toe isn't too far out, you're now set. Either move the plates to max or mark the new track camber setting position you've decided upon.
This is the process my daughter uses on her E46 ZHP with Ground Control coilovers, and it has worked great through many changes back and forth.
2011.5 M3 sedan 6MT, Silverstone, no sunroof, no EDC, but most other options
2001 M5 LeMans Blue/Silverstone
2006 330i 6MT Red/black, ZSP, Nav, etc.
2001 Audi S4 6MT; 1996 Volvo 850R wagon; 1975 CanAm 125MX2