Originally Posted by Merked M3
No one? I feel like a nerd now, haha. Dcstep? No other auto-x regulars here?
I guess the M3 is more at home on a track anyway. Don't get me wrong, I will be running a track setup too, but damn Laguna isn't running till next March! I have to get my motorsport on somehow!
Sorry, I was travelling when you first posted and then missed it when I got back.
Seat time is the thing, but here are a couple of questions that might help.
Do you know the most important corner on any course? It's the one leading to the longest straight. Take it so that you can start the straight as soon as possible.
Are you patient in neutral corners? The biggest mistake that I see over and over with students is they jump on the gas too soon and push at the end of neutral corners. I can be sitting right next to them and say, "Wait, wait, wait..." and they'll jump the gas on the last "wait" and push out and screw up the line for the next corner. It's a time killer.
When you trail brake around tight, 180-degree corners, does the car rotate for you at the apex? With those 305 on the rear, you may need to go to the E93 sway bar to get more rotation. Also, I'm assuming that you have 10" or 11" wide rims in the rear, are you running lower pressure in back? I run around 35 psi in front and 28 psi, cold, in the back to help with both traction on acceleration and rotation in corners. You should be getting the feeling that I believe that rotation is critical on most tight AX courses. (Not so much on road courses).
When there's a U-turn, can you carry enough momentum to trail-brake all the way to the apex? I love these corners because few competitors get them right and they're real time makers. Ideally, I'm braking really late and the car is on its nose and the front tires really turning with very little slip and the rear will rotate right at the apex. That's often good for half a second in a lap.
Do you left-foot-brake? I drive a 6-MT and still LFB. Taking your foot all the way off the gas to move to the brake unbalances the car and slows throttle response. (On turbo cars it's even more critical). Roll off the throttle and onto the brake simultaneously and the car will stay balanced. In a slalom this is particularly important, so you can make slight adjustments in speed without loosening the rear. Also, in big, neutral sweepers, if you give a little too much throttle and induce push, then touch the brake with the left foot to transfer just the right amount of weight up front and restore grip without loosening the rear.
That's almost my whole bag of tricks.
Oh, I've got a 4.10 final drive and 275 rears and lauch around 1800 rpm. You want the tires to spin just a time or two or three and be grabbing pretty quickly.
Oh, if you hit the top of second gear in a 6-MT, don't shift up unless it's a least a couple of seonds, then consider short-shifting earlier. Most times you should just stay on the rev limiter for a second or two.